Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Razão, Sensibilidade, Ipod

Doava 10% do salário à instituições sociais confiáveis e eficientes, devotara noites inteiras à busca por absolvição, mas era culpado, reiteradamente culpado. Até ali, aprendera apenas a evitar situações que o levariam a novos lapsos e a novas culpas. Proibiu-se de circular por várias calçadas em determinados dias e horários. Em algumas, como as calçadas próximas à Sé, estava terminantemente proibido de pôr os pés.
Em algumas calçadas, como as da Paulista, sentia-se mais seguro e inofensivo. Especialmente agora, que ali nascia uma calçada de primeiro mundo, moderna, com rebaixamentos perfeitos para cadeirantes, sinalização adequada, piso preparado para receber tanto o sol quanto a chuva tropical. Hoje, todavia, foi na Paulista que sucumbiu.
Saiu para almoçar e uma senhora bem aparentada lhe pediu um real para comer. Desnorteou-se. Num gesto envergonhado, pôs a mão na carteira e, ao tirar uma nota de um real, a senhora, rápida e profissionalmente, informou que ele poderia dar mais. Automaticamente, deu-lhe cinco.
Passado o choque, parado naquela calçada com “nível de investimento”, o politicamente correto Alberto, ciente de nossa gritante desigualdade social, mas revoltado com que o chama de indústria da caridade ineficiente cristã, se perguntava: como trafegar entre as brasileiríssimas faltas crônicas de dinheiro e de vergonha? Como fugir dos pólos opostos e delituosos da insensibilidade social e da idiotia burra e conivente?
Decidiu comprar um ipod.

Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Falling for São Paulo

I ended up not putting the videos I have made during the culture marathon of São Paulo. It is not that important. The youtube is full of videos of it, if someone wants to check.

What is important is that I decidedly started to enjoy this amazing city. Yesterday, monday night, I went to the theatre to see a play from Colombia called "El paso". It is taking part of the Latin American THeatre Festival that is happening here this week. The place is the Centro Cultural São Paulo, which is a 10 minutes walk from here and the tickets are free. So yesterday I arrived there an hour and a half before the show and manage to get a ticket.

The presentation was good, especially the way it ended. It was one of those plays that give you a delayed pleasure. I mean: you enjoy it during the presentation, but not as much as you enjoy the last minutes and the afterplay.

Still yesterday, I decided to take part in a course at the "Oficina da Palavra Casa Mário de Andrade" (something like: Office of the Word, House of Mário de Andrade, which is a famous classical Brazilian author). It is a course entitled "wathcing the city" and is coordenated by a blogger that use to read sometimes. It happens every tuesday night starting today until june. I think it will be quite fun.

And friday, there will be Rufus. Not bad!

Here it is a video of the controlled caos caused by a french group walking aimlessly in the streets of downton São Paulo:


And some photos of that night as well:

This is the building of the best Law Faculty of the country, which was transformed into a rave


Tuesday, April 29, 2008

24 hours of culture

Last saturday downtown São Paulo received even more people than usual. According to the metropolitan police, 4 million people gathered around dozens of rock, blues jazz and pop music stages, street performances, theatre plays, Dj sets, etc.

It started at 6PM of saturday and ended at 8PM of sunday, so I should actually say 26 hours of uninterrupted culture. I did not enjoy it the most, because I was exausted from a very hardcore week at work, but I still found some strengh to enjoy at least the first 8 hours of fun. And it was a complete blast.

Bellow a picture or a french group who promoted chaos in the streets of the center. At this moment, they went up the fence of the Brazilian Previdenciary Agency and set the fireworks. The cowd were asking them to put it all on fire.


I'll post more photos and videos later.

Thursday, April 17, 2008

A sign of a civilized nation

I was reading a blog of an ex-vj from MTV who became one of the best politicians in São Paulo and she was writing that yesterday she saw a bus killing a pedestrian after the bus did not respect the traffic light. Then she adds that 2 pedestrians are hit by busses in São Paulo PER DAY!!!

we are such a civilized people!

Unpolite co-Hero of the Day

As usual, I took a bus this morning to come to work at Paulista Avenue. This journey has become a lot more pleasurable since I got my new ipod and uploaded 7 gigabytes of my favorite music in it. Now the daily traffic jam is "mostly" other people's problem.

I got down in the "Paulista" and was walking the two blocks from the bus stop to my job. I forgot what I was listening, but it was something good (of course) and a joyfull sensation accompanied me while waiting to cross the Brigadeiro Faria Lima Street. So the pedestrian light went green but the people were still waiting to cross the street, because a late bus had passed the red light on the other side of Paulista Avenue and would had to pass by us first, otherwise it would stop the traffic. I mean, everybody but an old lady, who was on her second step crossing the "Brigadeiro". It was when a guy on her left side and me on her right side simultaneously pushed her back to the sidewalk. Few seconds later, the bus passed in high speed.

She said, smiling, that the light was green to her but that it was beteer to be a bit late than to change her day being taking by a bus and so she thanked us. The other guy made a comment that another day he saw a bus hitting a blind man who were crossing the street following the noise the pedestrian sign does when it is free for pedestrian. I replyed saying some cliché about how dangerous the traffic is here and asking if the old lady (who were wearing a very colorful and nice t-shirt, btw) was alright. She, always smiling, said she was perfectly fine and thanked again, but kind of moved her head away from me. It was then that the guy put his finger in his ear, giving me a sign to take my earphones off, so i didn't need to scream at people. I took them off just to say goodbye and we all went ahead with our lives, me with the earphones back again.

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

1808

I do not normally like to read a book when everybody is reading. I feel a bit unnoriginal. Today, however, I bought the book which is in the first place on sales ranking for about three months already here in Brazil. On my defence, it is a very interesting book, made by a renowed and good journalist, called laurentino Gomes.

The title, "1808", refers to the year when the portuguese royal family, including the king, moved from Portugal to Brazil, running away from Napoleon's army, which was invading Portugal, as it did all over Europe. It was the first time an european monarch came to America and it represented a large step in both Brazilian development and underdevelopment, since many of the countrie's corrupt and unefficient habits find their roots in 1808.

Actually, the fact is that the portuguese royal family is seen here as a joke (they do deserve such fame), but it is also acknowledged that despite the land of Brazil have been discovered in 1500, the country at it is was "invented" in 1808. I read only the first chapter until now. It has been very intersting and really fun.

Grafitti

As I still didn't find an apartment to live, I am staying wíth a cousin in a neighborhood called "Perdizes", in the west zone of São Paulo. Therefore, I am coming to work on the Paulista Avenue by bus. It is not that far, but it takes almost an hour to arrive here, due to the perfectly hellish traffic of São Paulo. One of the few advantages of the nearly-still-traffic of the city is to appreciate the grafitti that is on the way, which I really like. I will take some pictures... as soon as I find an apartment, but here is a taster:

Monday, April 7, 2008

will it be the day?

Cross your fingers. Tomorrow might be the day that I will rent a (temporary) flat.
By the way, if I forget, remind me later, but I have to talk about a very strange feeling I am having here in Brazil. There is a vibe that is absolutely new for me and my entire generation. It is feeling of optimism for the country that is hard to explain and, to be honest, quite scary.

Saturday, April 5, 2008

Another new best song of the hour

I swear that I will stop simply posting videos from you tube as soon as I do anything interesting here in São Paulo. However, all I do is looking for appartments. But come on, this song is great. It makes me want to do out right now to a club and dance all night. But then, I guess they won't play this song anywhere, so I will stay here and wake up early in the morning to look for the apartment that will make me stop looking for apartments.

You tube saves a life from boredom

What is worst: to look for a new job or to look for an apartment in a new city? I have the answer: looking for an apartment in a new ciy is worst. I cannot do anything but checking at apartment websites. Well, I can at least find gems on youtube while I search. I found a video of "After Hours" by We Are Scientists. It is so cute...
And, btw, if you think well, you can see that this video represents a combat between a weasle and a hamster. In the end, well, the obvious happen. :)

Thursday, April 3, 2008

Rufus in Brazil

According to one of the many blogs I read, Rufus Wainwright will be in Brazil in May. He plays Rio on the 7th, São Paulo on the 9th, Belo Horizonte on the 10th, and Brasília on the 13th.

Seriously, when I lived in Brasília, I envied the people who lived in São Paulo, because the concerts never made it to Brasília. Now that going there is completely unnecessary every artist and bands are going there as well. Ok, I am exagerating, but last year they had LCD Soundsystem and now they will see Rufus. It is a lot already.

Saturday, March 29, 2008

Who cares about... if R.E.M. has new wonderful songs?

In my last blog, I wrote once about a great new song by R.E.M., which is going to be in their new album, "Accelerate". The song is "living well's the best revenge", which now seems more beautiful and relevant than half a year ago. The good thing is that it's got the company of "Supernatural Superserious", another great new song.

So, it is a saturday night and I decided not to go out. Actually, my life this week was full of "deciding not to...". Is it a sign of depression? It is probably the lack of exercise (my prominent belly reminds me) together with being absolutely lost about present and future, but, as the title says, who cares? There is still R.E.M. and it is still very very good.

Supernatual Superserious:


Living well's the best revenge

Friday, March 28, 2008

It's all true

Even if all I can think about is my job and my search for a flat, it is rather too soon to write about it. If I tried, I would only moan and complain and I am not such a person. hahahaha.

Now it is friday night and I have had the obligatory beer in a bar after work. Now I am relaxed and in denial about my problems. In a moment like this I realize how São Paulo is cool. I look beyond and I see me in love for this city. I might even be right: I will fall in love for this city. If I can believe it now, after a hell of a week, it might be true.

By the way, thruth is the word of this week. A traditional documentary film festival called "É tudo Verdade" (it is all true) started today. It is one of the biggest documentary film festivals in the word. It is all over the cinemas in the city and several movies are being shown near my work. Better yet, they are all free (God, I love this word). Tomorrow I might see one film. I chose a film by Marcel Ophüls, called "The Sorrow and the Pity". It is abou the french reaction to the nazi invasion. Aparently, it denies that they resisted that much and shows images of prompt support to the nazi cause.

This is the trailler:

Thursday, March 27, 2008

São Paulo will be better

So here I am in São Paulo for almost a week and today was my first day of work.
What can I say? It has been so tough!

Every and other time, I remember a famous song by Caetano Veloso called "Sampa". In it, he describes his first impressions of São Paulo. The part I mostly relate to is when he says that "quem vem de outro sonho feliz de cidade, aprende depressa a chamar-te de realidade"(it translates as "who comes from other happy dream of a city, quickly learns to call you (São Paulo) reality").

And, of course, it had some nice moments. Actually, being honest, they were really few. But, as I say in the title, São Paulo will be better. It will start to be as soon as I find a flat. I decided so!

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Aquavit

It might be expensive (very), but going out to a nice restaurant can be such a boost of energy and good mood that it can actually pay off. Yesterday I was invited to go to "Aquavit", a new 5 stars restaurant that is located outside Brasília and from where one can see the Paranoá lake and the entire skyline of the city. It is simply breathtaking.

The chef is actually from Copenhagen and he came to our table (we were the only customers that night) and we talked a bit about Lund and the Oresund region, but I did not tell him that Copenhagen is not really my cup of tea. The food was really good and the fact that every plate came with a different exquisite wine made us feel quite relaxed and happy by the end of the meal. Besides, the music they played there was 5 stars as well, from Billy Holiday to Maysa.

All and all, it was an amazing night, just as I needed. Seriously, I truly needed and deserved it.

The beautiful skyline of Brasília:

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Pre-moving

One of the few things I have been enthusiastic about these days is to watch "Manhattan Connection", a Brazilian TV show that is broadcasted on sunday nights on a payed tv channel. It is just an hour of informal talk between journalists, most of them living in NY. It is about culture as well as politics and economy. It is just fun to see intelligent people chatting without a very serious tone.

I guess my lack of interest for many other things (these includes videogames and sex...) happens because I am three days to take a flight and move to São Paulo. There are so many things to do that I just do not do anything and I completely lost my power of observating anything. Simply saying: nothing is that interesting if you can only think about personal errands. But yes, I am going to São Paulo on saturday and... we'll see. I guess it will be fine.

Friday, March 14, 2008

Music is the hot sex of imaginary people

Since last week, the indie and pop news here have talked and talked about the unofficial video clip from CSS (Cansei de Ser Sexy) that has become the most viewed video of you tube history!!!

Seriously, almost 110 million people have seen (?) the video until today. The fact is, nobody believes it and there are hundreds of conspiratory theories about it already. My favorite is that the words "hot" and "sex" are attacting all kinds of perverts to see the video. hahahahaha

Of course there is a glitche in the you tube website and something is wrong. Even the band has said that there is something wrong and that they do not believe in this number. However, thinking handsite, it is very good that the glitche is promoting something like CSS and music is my hot hot sex than anything else. Better yet, it is a private movie, made by an italian fan. Imagine if the glitche were putting something relegious on the top of youtube. It would be REALLY the end of the world as we know it.

Better than CSS, only if this had happened with Britney Spears. Afterall, she cannot be forgotten just yet.

So, if you want to help CSS on the top (not that they need it, apparently) this is the video:


And if you want to check on this AMAZING video about Britney Spears fanatism. It is on the youtube awards of 2007. Check it here:

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Day 2, Brazilian Movie 2

I was aware that in the first days back to Brazil I was too emotional. I was aware that the Brazilian films I was seeing had that fair moments of emotional manipulation. And I was aware that I was emotionally manipulated by both movies. I cried in the end of both.

"O signo da cidade" (something like " the astrological sign of the city") is irresistibly like "Crash, the american movie that I truly detested for being so dishonest. However, unlike "Crash", I truly enjoyed "O signo da cidade" and it felt very honest to me. At times, while wathcing the movie, I even felt grateful for the theme of the movie: people, Brazilians in Brazil's biggest city.

But why did I cry again at the end of the movie? I dare to answer: probably because of the most ordinary cliche. I have seen myself so strongly in the movie, in almost all characters. I know I was manipulated by the movie, but this awareness did not make this emotion to feel any less valid.

Oscar Freire Street

Overheard conversations on Oscar Freire Street, one of the most fashionble and expensive streets in Säo Paulo:

"To her, 10000 reais (approximately 6000 dollars) is a lot of money."

"Ah, "Lost" (the american series) is a necessit to me. It is my mental food."

While walking in this street, on my second day back to Brazil, I felt excluded as I never felt anywhere in Europe. At least, I also felt that I did not want to belong there.

Still not about Johnny

Just a while later I saw the poster of "My name is not Johnny". The posters says that "He had it all, but limits."

Ho can Brazilians have limits? With few exceptions, we are not thaught about that. We still think, for instance, that public money is nobody's money. we believe all chances shall be taken advantage of, regardless... regardless anything.

Lack of limits can explain so much in Brazil. Corruption comes to my mind as a prime example. As a counterbalance, I remeber carnival. Every year, we have an official obligation to put our limits to the test.

Seeing the Brazilian experience, specially the carnival, I think that lack of limits not always represents the fuel for a burning revolution. It can also be (as it is in Brazil) a recipe for everything to remain the same.

In a Fashionable Clothes Shop

In the heat of Brazilian summer, I urgently needed to buy some clothes as soon as I arrived in Sao Paulo. This happened in the shop. It started while I was trying on some t-shirts.

The salesperson was talking to another salesperson and to a client. He said he would diiiie if Hebe (a Brazilian TV host approximately 100 years old) ever come to the shop. The client said he would die if he saw her as well. Daniela, the other salesperson, stopped the conversation to ask me if the everything I was trying on fit me. By now, I was being called by my name. Afterall, we had meet five minutes ago alreay.

The t-shirt was good (and so were the other three that I bought). We kept talking, now about ME. Yes, I was living abroad. Yes, Sweden is very cold, but it is beautiful. If the swedes are liberal? yes, very much. If the do topless on the beaches during the summer? of course, it is a natural thing there.

Then the guy who adored Hebe comes us again. He was lauging out loud. He shows every customer in the shop a glass of water with something inside. He shows it to me. It is a penis. "It was very small. It grows if you put it under water", he says. The entire shop laughs almost hysterically. The penis was bigger then the glass right now. No sign of water anymore.

So, asks Daniela, where will you live? I answer that I do not know yet. "I love nomads", she replies.

I said goodbye to the salespersons and the other clients of the shop. A while after, I realized they were the first people I actually talked to since I arrived in Brazil. Quite fun!

Thursday, March 6, 2008

How do You Relate to Your Country?

First night in Brazil, shocked, as expected, on how the slums are big, the steaks are good, people looking in my eyes, understandable conversations (unfortunately) all around, Sao Paulo’s noise, its harsh beauty, people walking slow…

So I went to see a Brazilian movie, “My name is not Johnny”. It is about this guy, this charismatic guy, this middle-class-liberal-with-good-friends kind of guy, who from smoking a joint and sniffing some dust becomes quite a drug dealer. He ventures in Europe, makes a big deal there, gets loaded and burns it all before coming back. He was having a blast.

While in this blast, of course, he faces the corrupted cops, who he pays in order to have it taken easy on him, and then he faces less flexible cops, who send him to jail. And then, of course, the film shows the Carandiru-like scenes in the detention and so on…

Eventually, his lawyer convinces the judge that he could not entirely respond for his acts (he sniffed 100 grams of cocaine a week, for Christ’s sake) and so he is removed to a judicial mental institution. He manages to survive there and he was freed in 2 years time. Today he is a music producer.

Yeah, the movie was based on true facts and the judge who convicts João (that’s his name, not Johnny) affirms he is an example that it is POSSIBLE to recuperate someone.

But, coming back to my initial question, how do you relate to your country?

In a letter addressed to our cool guy, the judge also says that “the true place of birth is the one where you look intelligently upon yourself for the first time.” …

Brazil challenges me, it puzzles me. Fundamentally, it destroys my innocence. How do I relate to that? How we, Brazilians, can relate to such thing? Maybe, possibly, by creating a fresh “innocence” on a daily basis, conscientious that it will be very soon destroyed, but creating it nonetheless. I reborn here, probably not by looking intelligently upon myself, but by reinventing fresh beliefs, opinions and values to be soon challenged and destroyed.

So maybe that is how we relate to one another and to this amazing (for good and bad) part of the Earth. After the movie, people stare at me. I wonder what kind of innocence they created today and, more importantly, how tonight will destroy it. I stare back. I cannot hide from them. They know, deep inside, my innocence is to be destroyed soon as well.